Solid cosmetic composition in compact powder form

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a solid makeup and/or care cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: one pulverulent phase; one organopolysiloxane elastomer; one emulsifying system; one hydrophilic gelling agent; and one organic non-volatile oil present in a content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to an intermediate composition for the preparation of such a cosmetic composition, to a process for manufacturing this cosmetic composition, and to a process for coating the skin with the said cosmetic composition.

The present invention targets the field of care and/or makeup cosmeticcompositions, and more specifically compositions in compact powder form.The invention also relates to an intermediate composition for thepreparation of such a cosmetic composition, to a process formanufacturing this cosmetic composition, and to a process for coatingthe skin with the said cosmetic composition.

The galenical forms conventionally adopted for solid compositions aregenerally loose, pressed or compact powders. As non-limitingillustrations of the solid galenical forms more particularly consideredin the field of makeup, mention may be made especially of loose orpressed powders such as foundation powders, face powders and eyeshadows.

The function of the abovementioned powders is mainly to give colour,mattness and even, for those more particularly intended for facial skin,to improve the wear property of a foundation or, if used alone, to givecoverage (foundation powder).

These galenical forms are particularly appreciated by users with regardto their lightness, softness, tack-free aspect or non-greasy feel.

In general, these compositions combine a pulverulent phase that isgenerally predominant with a binder phase usually featured by a liquidfatty phase. The pulverulent phase is formed essentially of fillerscombined with pigments, the amount of these pigments being modified toafford the desired makeup effect, generally a colour effect.

To obtain a composition in solid, compacted form, it is known from theprior art to use compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powderswith a fatty binder, which are put in form, for example, by compression.

However, these powders in particular have the drawback of being fragile.Thus, when the percentage of pigments or nacres increases in theproduct, its manufacture and its compacting become complicated or evenimpossible to perform at an industrial level given the quality andproductivity requirements. In addition, the known compacted powders aregenerally brittle and often have poor impact strength, in particularwhen the degree of nacres incorporated is high, for example greater thanor equal to 30%, or even 40%. Compositions having such a content ofnacres have the disadvantage of being fragile and thus of breakingeasily in the event of impacts.

Furthermore, if the amount of fatty binder is increased, thiscomposition will have a tendency to become waxy, i.e. to harden duringuse to the point that it cannot be taken up.

It is known practice from the prior art, for the manufacture of suchcompositions, to use volatile organic solvents (isoparaffins,isododecane or isopropanol) used in an industrial process known as a WetProcess, so as to inject one or more foundation powder(s) into arespective cup. These solvents, with a flash point of less than 50° C.,allow fluidization of the powder and thus its placing in form in thecup, and then evaporate off. However, this process may entail risks dueto the release into the atmosphere of organic solvents.

Thus, in order to reduce these risks for the environment and thehandler, the inventors have formulated a composition that is compatiblewith the use of such a process, using, not a hydrocarbon-based compoundas volatile solvent, but water.

However, a problem encountered due to the use of water in such a processis the creation of very strong electrostatic bonds in the saidcomposition, leading to the formation of a very cohesive composition incompact powder form that cannot be taken up sufficiently easily.

One aim of the present invention is thus to obtain makeup compositionsin compact powder form that show good cohesion and good homogenization,while at the same time offering satisfactory cosmetic qualities, thusallowing a uniform makeup result, without any overthickness or anymaterial effect.

An aim of the present invention is also to obtain impact-resistantmakeup compositions in compact powder form.

An aim of the present invention is also to obtain makeup compositions incompact powder form that show good adhesion to the keratin material tobe made up, in particular the eyelids.

An aim of the present invention is also to offer twofold use (wet anddry) for a modulable long-lasting makeup. In particular, an aim of theinvention is to allow the production of a powdery rendering during dryapplication of the makeup composition, and a creamy rendering during wetapplication of this same composition, thus making it possible to varythe optical effects on application.

An aim of the invention is also to obtain makeup compositions in compactpowder form obtained by means of an industrial process that is safe forthe manufacturer and environmentally friendly.

To do this, according to a first aspect, one subject of the presentinvention is a solid makeup and/or care cosmetic composition in the formof a compact powder, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,at least:

-   -   one pulverulent phase,    -   one organopolysiloxane elastomer,    -   one emulsifying system,    -   one hydrophilic gelling agent, the said composition comprising        an organic non-volatile oil present in a content of greater than        or equal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the        composition, preferably 2% by weight relative to the total        weight of the composition.

Preferably, the said non-volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-basedand silicone non-volatile oils, and a mixture thereof. Such acomposition preferably obtained via an injection manufacturing processusing water as dilution solvent in particular has the advantage ofallowing good structuring of the powder.

Such a composition can thus produce eyeshadows comprising a largecontent of colouring agents such as pigments and/or nacres, for examplegreater than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition, without weakening the product, and while conserving gooduptake qualities.

Furthermore, such a powder formed by virtue of the presence of water,even if there is little or no trace of this water in the final productafter the drying step, makes it possible to conserve a composition thatis suitable for rehydration. This principle makes the product ideal forwet or dry use.

The texture of such a composition permits the deposition of a smooth andhomogeneous film on the skin, which has good wear properties. Finally,this compact composition, despite the possible significant presence ofcolouring agents, remains particularly resistant to impacts.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises aspulverulent phase at least one filler, the said filler and the saidhydrophilic gelling agent preferably being distinct.

For the purposes of the present invention, the following definitionsapply:

-   -   “solid” means the state of the composition at room temperature        (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. a        composition of high consistency, which conserves its form during        storage. As opposed to “fluid” compositions, it does not flow        under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a        hardness as defined below.    -   “compact powder” means a mass of product whose cohesion is at        least partly provided by compacting or pressing during the        manufacture. In particular, by taking a measurement using a        TA.XT.plus Texture Analyser texturometer sold by the company        Stable Micro Systems, the compact powder according to the        invention may advantageously have a pressure resistance of        between 0.2 and 2.5 kg and especially between 0.8 and 1.5 kg,        relative to the surface area of the spindle used (in the present        case 7.07 mm²). The measurement of this resistance is performed        by moving an SMS P/3 flat-headed cylindrical spindle over a        distance of 1.5 mm and at a speed of 0.5 mm/sec.    -   “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a        medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a        composition according to the invention to the skin.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises lessthan 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight of thecomposition, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, or is even freeof water.

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises asolids content of greater than or equal to 90%, better still 95%, oreven, more preferentially still, 97%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the “solids content” denotesthe content of non-volatile matter.

The solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to theinvention is measured using a “Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73”commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement isperformed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogenheating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once thewater and the volatile matter have evaporated off.

This technique is fully described in the machine documentation suppliedby Mettler Toledo.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as thesample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in thehalogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to atemperature of 105° C. until a constant weight is obtained. The wet massof the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass ofthe sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, aremeasured using a precision balance.

The experimental error associated with the measurement is of the orderof plus or minus 2%.

The solids content is calculated in the following manner:

Solids content (expressed as weight percentage)=100×(dry mass/wet mass).

The composition may comprise a pulverulent phase in an amount of greaterthan or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition. The pulverulent phase may comprise a filler and a colouringagent chosen from nacres, pigments and reflective particles, andmixtures thereof. The said composition may have a content of nacres ofbetween 30% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition, advantageously greater than or equal to 40% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition, better still 50%, oreven 55%.

According to one particular embodiment, the emulsifying system of thecomposition is chosen from at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLBof less than 8 at 25° C., an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactantand an amphoteric surfactant, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, thesaid surfactant is chosen from saccharide esters and ethers, fatty acidesters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, fatty alcohols and silicone compounds.Preferably, the said surfactant is chosen from saccharide esters andethers.

According to one particular embodiment, the said surfactant is chosenfrom an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, advantageously frompolyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyoxyalkylenatedorganopolysiloxane elastomers.

As a variant or additionally, the said composition may comprise anon-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The said organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a solids contentof between 0.5% and 8% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The said hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from thickeningfillers, polymeric thickeners and associative polymers.

According to one particular embodiment, the said composition comprises achelating agent, advantageously chosen from aminocarboxylic acids suchas tetrasodium EDTA.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an eyeshadow,an eyebrow composition, a blusher or a face powder. Even morepreferentially, the composition is an eyeshadow.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the said solidmakeup and/or care cosmetic composition that is in the form of a compactpowder comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, limitsinclusive and expressed as weight of solids for each of the compoundsconsidered, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least:

-   -   0.5% to 3% of an emulsifying system, in particular at least one        nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8, such as sorbitan        stearate,    -   1% to 3% of a hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular at least        one thickening filler such as a clay,    -   1% to 20% of a non-volatile oil, advantageously chosen from        hydrocarbon-based and silicone oils, and a mixture thereof, for        example a non-volatile silicone oil of INCI name dimethicone,    -   0.5% to 10% of an organopolysiloxane elastomer, in particular at        least one elastomer conveyed in at least one non-volatile        silicone oil, for example an elastomer of INCI name        dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer,    -   50% to 70% of colouring agents, in particular chosen from at        least one nacre, and    -   0 to 3% of water.

According to a second aspect of the invention, a composition accordingto the invention is preferably obtained from an intermediatecomposition. Such an intermediate composition intended to beinjection-moulded preferably comprises a non-volatile phase,corresponding to the components found in the composition to be appliedby the user, and a volatile phase, preferably formed from water, used assolvent to allow the injection moulding of the said composition, whichis intended to be at least partially or even totally removed from thesaid composition to be applied by the user. This intermediatecomposition has a water content of 30% to 50% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition. It also preferably comprises anon-volatile phase, present in a content of 50% to 70% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

Such a composition is intended to be passed through a machine such asthe Pilote Back Injection Machine sold by the company Nanyo Co. Ltd(Japan). This composition is injected into one or more moulds, or cups,from which the water conveying the pulverulent phase is then removed.This water may advantageously be removed by placing under vacuum and/orstoving and/or drying by microwave irradiation and/or lyophilizationand/or drying by infrared irradiation. The advantage of such machines isthat they can be fitted with several injection heads, thus making itpossible to easily and simultaneously prepare several differentcompositions in compact powder form, for example of different shades.

According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is alsoa process for manufacturing a makeup and/or care cosmetic compositionfrom an intermediate composition as defined above. This processcomprises the steps:

-   -   of injection into a cup or mould, preferably via its base, of        the said intermediate composition, and    -   of removal of the aqueous phase from the said intermediate        composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with the        said injection step, via any suitable means.

The step of removing the aqueous phase may preferably be performed via astep of placing the said composition under vacuum, which preferablytakes place simultaneously with the injection step, preferably followed,once the injection step is complete, by a step of oven-drying until theweight of the said makeup and/or care composition is stable.

According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is alsoa process for making up or caring for keratin materials, in particularthe skin and especially eyelids, in which a composition as definedpreviously is applied to the said keratin materials.

Pulverulent Phase

The pulverulent phase comprises fillers and colouring agents.

A solid composition according to the invention advantageously has acontent of pulverulent phase of greater than or equal to 35% by weight,in particular greater than or equal to 40% by weight, more particularlyranging from 45% to 90% by weight and better still from 50% to 70% byweight relative to its total weight.

Fillers

The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or whitesolid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble anddispersed in the medium of the composition. These fillers, of mineral ororganic nature, give the composition softness and give the makeup resulta matt effect and uniformity.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present inventionmay be of lamellar, globular or spherical form, fibres or in any formintermediate between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated,and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, aminoacids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes thedispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions accordingto the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, magnesiumaluminium silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calciumcarbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride,hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass orceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200 orAerosil 300; Sunsphere L-33 and Sunsphere H-51 sold by Asahi Glass;Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titaniumdioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, perlitepowders and fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof.

Among the organic fillers that may be used, mention may be made ofpolyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powdersand polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®),lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollowpolymer microspheres, for example comprising an (alkyl)acrylate, such asExpancel® (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylicacids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithiumstearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L200 (ChemdalCorporation), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl® fromToshiba), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinkedpolyurethane comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprisingtrimethylol hexyl lactone, for instance the hexamethylenediisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer sold under the namePlastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki,carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as theproduct sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MicroPowders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax andpolyethylene wax, such as those sold Micro Care 300® and 310® by thecompany Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba waxand of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such asthose sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by thecompany Micro Powders; fibres of synthetic or natural, mineral ororganic origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, forexample braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape and mayespecially have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal)cross section depending on the specific application envisaged. Inparticular, their ends are blunted and/or polished to prevent injury.The fibres have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their cross section maybe included in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μm,preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μm and better still from 1 μm to50 μm. As fibres that may be used in the compositions according to theinvention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibres such as polyamide(Nylon®) fibres or rigid fibres such as polyimideamide fibres, forinstance those sold under the names Kermel® and Kermel Tech® by thecompany Rhodia or poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) fibressold especially under the name Kevlar® by the company DuPont de Nemours,

and mixtures thereof.

As representatives of such fillers preferably used in the context of thepresent invention, mention may be made especially of talc, starch,fluorphlogopite, clays such as magnesium aluminium silicate, or hollowpolymer microspheres.

The fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from5% to 60% by weight and preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.

As stated above, a composition according to the invention preferablyalso comprises a colouring agent in its pulverulent phase.

Colouring Agents

The coloring agent or dyestuff according to the invention is preferablychosen from pigments, nacres and reflective particles, and mixturesthereof.

Pigments

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured,mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in thephysiological medium, and which are intended to colour the composition.

The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and/or organic.

Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide,optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and alsozinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide,manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue,and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder.

The organic pigments may be chosen from the materials below, andmixtures thereof:

-   -   cochineal carmine,    -   organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes,        xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane        dyes and fluorane dyes.        Among the organic pigments, mention may be made especially of        the D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C        Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6,        D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C        Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C        Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C        Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C        Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No.        8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C        Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No.        6.

The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffsmentioned previously are mentioned in the International CosmeticIngredient Dictionary and Handbook, 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and FragranceAssociation, the content of which is incorporated into the presentpatent application by reference.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a content ofpigments ranging from 0 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight andpreferentially ranging from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Nacres

The terms “nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles ofany form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced bycertain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and whichhave a colour effect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments suchas titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuthoxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and also nacreouspigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particlesat the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers ofmetal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze,orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced as interferencepigments into the first composition, mention may be made especially ofthe gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparklegold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne);the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the nameBronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by thecompany Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orangenacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merckunder the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449)(Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhardunder the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509(Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with ared tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine(17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the rednacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the blacknacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard underthe name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres soldespecially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433)(Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by thecompany Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-greenpink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the nameIndian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Still as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particlescomprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide areespecially sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.

Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned includepolyethylene terephthalate flakes, especially those sold by the companyMeadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silverflakes).

The compositions according to the invention may comprise, limitsinclusive, from 10% to 80%, for example from 20% to 70% and better stillfrom 30% to 60% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight ofcolouring agents. In particular, they may comprise a content of greaterthan or equal to 50% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight ofcolouring agents.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise from 20% to90%, for example from 30% to 80% and better still from 50% to 75% byweight of nacres relative to the total weight of the pulverulent phase.In particular, they may comprise a content of greater than or equal to50% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of the pulverulentphase.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise from 10 to 80%,for example from 20% to 70% and better still from 30% to 60% by weightof nacres relative to the total weight of the composition. Inparticular, they may comprise a content of greater than or equal to 50%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Reflective Particles

The term “reflective particles” denotes particles whose size, structure,especially the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made andtheir physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them toreflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have anintensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or ofthe mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, points ofoverbrightness that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminouspoints that contrast with their environment by appearing to sparkle.

The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantlyalter the colouration effect generated by the colouring agents withwhich they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize thiseffect in terms of colour yield. They may more particularly have ayellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour ortint.

These particles may have varied forms and may especially be in plateletor globular form, in particular spherical.

Irrespective of their form, the reflective particles may or may not havea multilayer structure, and, in the case of a multilayer structure, forexample at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflectivematerial.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, theymay be composed, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium oriron oxides obtained synthetically.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they maycomprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially asynthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer ofa reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallicmaterial. The substrate may be a monomaterial, multimaterial, organicand/or mineral substrate.

More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite,metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicatesand borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this listnot being limiting.

The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallicmaterial.

Reflective particles are described especially in documentsJP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 andJP-A-05017710.

Again as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineralsubstrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made ofparticles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.

Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form ofplatelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS bythe company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated withnickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF550 and GF 2525 by this same company.

Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum,iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, manganese,steel, bronze or titanium, may also be used, said substrate being coatedwith at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titaniumoxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide orsilicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powderor copper powder coated with SiO2 sold under the name Visionaire by thecompany Eckart.

Preferably, the pulverulent phase comprises at least one compound chosenfrom:

organic pigments such as, for example:

-   -   the pigments certified D&C by the Food & Drug Administration as        listed in the section “Color Additives—Batch Certified by the        U.S. Food and Drug Administration” of the CTFA; mention may be        made especially of Blue 1 and 4, Brown 1, Ext. Violet 2, Ext.        Yellow 7, Green 3, 5, 6 and 8, Orange 4, 5, 10 and 11, Red 4, 6,        7, 17, 21, 22, 27, 28, 30, 36 and 40, Violet 2, Yellow 5, 6, 7,        8, 10 and 11,        mineral pigments such as:    -   iron oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc        oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide,    -   ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, pink or violet,        chromium hydrate, chromium hydroxide or bismuth oxychloride,        nacres such as, for example:    -   mica coated with titanium oxide, mica coated with titanium oxide        and iron oxide, and mica coated with an amino acid such as        lauroyl lysine,    -   polyethylene terephthalate flakes,    -   sericite,    -   and mixtures thereof,        reflective particles such as, for example:    -   particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with a        metallic layer.

Aqueous Phase

The intermediate composition used in the injection-moulding processaccording to the invention comprises an aqueous phase in a proportion offrom 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

This aqueous phase is subsequently at least partly removed in the saidcomposition to be applied by the user, which may finally comprise lessthan 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight of thecomposition, or even less than 2% by weight of water, or alternativelyis free of water. This removal of water may be performed by any suitablemeans. It may especially be performed, as a variant or additionally,placing under vacuum, oven-drying, ventilation, lyophilization orheating, or alternatively by microwave or infrared radiation. Accordingto one preferred embodiment, this water removal step takes place bysuction via a system for placing under vacuum the said intermediatecomposition present in the cup, and also during a step of drying in aventilated oven, for example at 50° C., of the said intermediatecomposition until the weight of the said composition no longer changes.

The composition according to the invention thus generally comprises anaqueous phase, which may be termed residual, corresponding to thecontent of water not removed during the injection-moulding step.

This aqueous phase, when present, is used in an amount that iscompatible with the pulverulent galenical form required according to theinvention.

The aqueous phase may be a demineralized water or alternatively a floralwater such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittelwater, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise a polyol that is miscible with waterat room temperature (25° C.) chosen especially from polyols especiallycontaining from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms,such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol,hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers(especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- ortripropylene glycol (C₁-C₄) alkyl ethers or mono-, di- or triethyleneglycol (C₁-C₄) alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a polyol that ismiscible with water at room temperature. Such polyols may promote themoisturization of the cutaneous surface onto which the composition isapplied.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise amonoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol orisopropanol.

Hydrophilic Gelling Agents

The composition according to the invention comprises one or morehydrophilic gelling agent(s).

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term“hydrophilic gelling agent” means a compound that is capable of gellingthe aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. Moreparticularly, the function of these hydrophilic gelling agents is tostructure the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition, so as tomaintain a structured composition once the water has been removed fromthe said composition. This gelling agent may be introduced with theaqueous phase of the intermediate composition or with the pulverulentphase. This gelling agent is advantageously soluble in the aqueous phaseof the intermediate composition.

The gelling agent that may be used according to the invention mayespecially be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond acertain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology(μ=1 Hz) by a flow threshold τ_(c) at least equal to 10 Pa. Thisconcentration C* may vary widely according to the nature of the gellingpolymer under consideration.

The gelling agent may be present in the composition in an amount that issufficient to adjust the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25° C.) of thecomposition to a value greater than or equal to 10 000 Pa and especiallyranging from 10 000 Pa to 100 000 Pa.

The method for measuring these parameters of the composition isdescribed, for example, in patent application EP 1 534 218 in theparagraph entitled “rheological characterization”.

It is understood that the alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal ortransition metal salts, such as zinc stearate, zinc myristate ormagnesium stearate are not considered within the meaning of the presentinvention as hydrophilic gelling agents. Specifically, such compoundsserve first and foremost as fillers, and in particular as agents forcompacting the pulverulent phase.

Thickening Fillers

Thickening fillers may fulfil this function as aqueous-phase gellingagents. Such fillers preferably comprise a clay that is capable ofswelling in water and/or hollow mineral or organic microspheres.

The clay present in the composition according to the invention is claythat is capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water andforms after hydration a colloidal dispersion.

Clays are products that are already well known per se, which aredescribed, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles[Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition1982, Masson.

Clays are silicates containing a cation advantageously chosen fromcalcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations,and mixtures thereof.

Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of thesmectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites,beidellites and saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite andchlorite families.

These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Clays that arecosmetically compatible and acceptable with the skin are preferablyused.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment of the presentinvention, the clay used, that is capable of swelling in water, ischosen from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite andsaponites, and more particularly hectorites and bentonites.

As clays that are capable of swelling in water which may be usedaccording to the invention, mention may be made of synthetic hectorites(also known as laponites), for instance the products sold by the companyLaporte under the name Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (theseproducts are sodium magnesium silicates and in particular sodium lithiummagnesium silicates); bentonites, for instance the product sold underthe name Bentone HC by the company Rheox; magnesium aluminium silicates,especially hydrated, for instance the product sold by the VanderbiltCompany under the name Veegum Ultra, or calcium silicates and especiallythe product in synthetic form sold by the company under the nameMicro-cel C.

Preferably, when a thickening filler is used as hydrophilic gellingagent, such as a clay, at least one distinct additional filler isprovided in the said pulverulent phase of the composition.

The clay may be present in the composition in a content ranging from0.5% to 5% by weight and better still from 1% to 3% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.

Polymeric Hydrophilic Thickeners

More particularly, this gelling agent may be chosen from the followingpolymeric thickeners:

-   -   acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts        and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the        names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid,        Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of        Synthalen K type, and salts, especially sodium salts, of        polyacrylic acids (corresponding to the INCI name sodium        acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium        polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate        copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglycerides) sold under the        name Luvigel EM by the company,    -   copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of        the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten by the company        Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan        No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of        polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by the        company Henkel,    -   polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified        or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the copolymers most        particularly preferred according to the present invention are        acrylate/C₁₀-C₃₀-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name:        Acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀ Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the        products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names        Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol ETD 2020,        and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2;    -   AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially        neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by        the company Clariant,    -   AMPS/acrylamide copolymers such as the products Sepigel or        Simulgel sold by the company SEPPIC, especially a copolymer of        INCI name Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and)        Laureth-7.    -   polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate copolymers        (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as Aristoflex        HMS sold by the company Clariant,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of polymeric thickeners that may be mentioned include:

-   -   anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan        polymers;    -   cellulose polymers, other than alkylcellulose, chosen from        hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,        hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and        carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose        derivatives;    -   vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers        of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of        vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;    -   optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:        galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum,        gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum        tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl        guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate        groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium        guar chloride, and xanthan derivatives;    -   alginates and carrageenans;    -   glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;    -   deoxyribonucleic acid;    -   mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin        sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent ischosen from associative polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associativepolymer” means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure atleast one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. Theassociative polymers in accordance with the present invention may beanionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative Anionic Polymers

Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are thosecomprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chainallyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit isformed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, advantageously by avinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or amethacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl etherunit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH₂═C(R′)CH₂OB_(n)R  (I)

in which R′ denotes H or CH₃, B denotes the ethylenoxy radical, n iszero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes ahydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryland cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbonatoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared,according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned aremaleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as theproduct (maleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer)sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company NewphaseTechnologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, it is possible, according to onepreferred embodiment, to use copolymers comprising among their monomersan α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of anoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C₁-C₄alcohol.

Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn22® sold by the company Röhm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethylacrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 OE units)terpolymer or Aculyn 28 (methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenatedbehenyl methacrylate (25 OE) terpolymer).

Examples of associative anionic polymers that may also be mentionedinclude anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit ofunsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobicunit exclusively of the type such as a (C₁₀-C₃₀) alkyl ester of anunsaturated carboxylic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include theanionic polymers described and prepared according to U.S. Pat. Nos.3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

Cationic Associative Polymers

Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include quaternizedcellulose derivatives and polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

-   -   quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least        one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups        comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,    -   quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or        alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures        thereof.

The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine sidegroups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such assteareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses orhydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthrylgroups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C₈-C₃₀fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C₁₂ alkyl) andQuatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and theproducts Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C₁₈alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Examples of polyacrylates bearing amino side chains that may bementioned are the polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the companyNational Starch.

Nonionic Associative Polymers

The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

-   -   celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty        chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups,        especially of C₈-C₂₂, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as        Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS(C₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company        Aqualon,    -   celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether        groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500        (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company        Amerchol,    -   guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,    -   copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic        monomers,    -   copolymers of C₁-C₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of        amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain,    -   copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of        hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for        instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl        methacrylate copolymer,    -   associative polyurethanes.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising inthe chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature(polyurethanes may also be referred to as polyurethane polyethers), andhydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/orcycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-basedlipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by ahydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendentchains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, itis possible for one or more pendent chains to be included. In addition,the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at bothends of a hydrophilic block.

Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers, in triblock ormultiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of thechain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic centralblock) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example:multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or starpolymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblockcopolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chaincomprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associativepolyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks,whence arises the name.

According to one preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer ofpolyurethane polyether type is used as gelling agent.

By way of example of polyurethane polyethers that may not be used in theinvention, mention may be made of the polymer C₁₆-OE₁₂₀-C₁₆ from thecompany Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, which is a moleculecontaining a urethane function and having a weight-average molecularweight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit.

Rheolate 205 bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, orRheolate 208 or 204, or alternatively Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis ofINCI name Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI, may also be used as associativepolyurethane polymer. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pureform. The product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas containing a C₂₀ alkyl chainand a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may alsobe used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers,especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of suchpolymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 andSER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible touse the products Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Röhm & Haas, or alternativelyBorchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular        hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups        (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar        chloride,    -   vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,    -   anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid,        such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic        acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22        by Röhm & Haas,    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name        Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular        hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups        (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar        chloride,    -   anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid,        such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic        acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22        by Röhm & Haas,    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name        Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

Amphoteric Associative Polymers

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention maybe made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranchedamphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization

1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

in which R₄ and R₅, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R₆, R₇ and R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a linearor branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z represents a group NH or an oxygen atom,

n is an integer from 2 to 5,

A⁻ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as amethosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

Z₁ represents a group OH or a group NHC(CH₃)₂CH₂SO₃H;

3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atomand R₁₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least oneof the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least onefatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and the said compoundsof the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly beingquaternized, for example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkylsulfate.

The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention arepreferably chosen from the group formed by:

-   -   dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or        dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for        example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkyl sulfate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen fromacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride andmethacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonicacid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acidand 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly,the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by C₁₂-C₂₂ and more particularly C₁₆-C₁₈alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen fromN,N′-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allylmethacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates,ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate,1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomerssuch as nonionic monomers and in particular C₁-C₄ alkyl acrylates ormethacrylates.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges in theseamphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphotericpolymers represents a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500,preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even more preferentiallybetween 100 000 and 8 000 000.

Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention containfrom 1 mol % to 99 mol %, more preferentially from 20 mol % to 95 mol %and even more preferentially from 25 mol % to 75 mol % of compound(s) offormula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol % to 80mol %, more preferentially from 5 mol % to 80 mol % and even morepreferentially from 25 mol % to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (V).The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol %, more preferentially between 1 mol % and 50 mol % andeven more preferentially between 1 mol % and 10 mol %. The crosslinkingor branching agent, when it is present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol % and even more preferentially between 0.0001 mol % and 0.1mol %.

Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or(IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20/80 to 95/5 andmore preferentially from 25/75 to 75/25.

The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention aredescribed, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to theinvention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   clays;    -   optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as xanthan        gum;    -   AMPS/acrylamide copolymers such as a copolymer of INCI name        Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin Laureth-7, such as        Sepigel;    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as a copolymer of INCI name Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI;

and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the compositionaccording to the invention in a solids content of greater than or equalto 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Inparticular, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in thecomposition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from0.5% to 5% by weight and preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.

Fatty Phase

A cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageouslycomprises at least one fatty phase as binder.

This fatty phase is preferably liquid. It preferably comprises at leastone oil, preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that isliquid at room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760mmHg).

This fatty phase may in particular comprise at least one non-volatileoil and/or one volatile oil. Preferably, this fatty phase comprises atleast one non-volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free ofvolatile oil.

The content of oil in the said composition may range from 0.5% to 30% byweight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight and better still from 8%to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-Volatile Oil

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or thekeratin fibre at room temperature and pressure. More precisely, anon-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01mg/cm²/min.

This non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluorooil. It is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.

Non-volatile oils that may especially be mentioned include:

-   -   hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,    -   hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl        esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate        and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate; triglycerides        formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular whose        fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆ and        especially from C₁₈ to C₃₆, these oils possibly being linear or        branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may        especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil,        alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil,        quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea        butter oil, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil,        groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil,        broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellina oil, carrot oil,        safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut        oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil,        macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St-John's wort oil,        monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive        oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi        seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa        oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil,        castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or        alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those        sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the        names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,    -   synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;    -   synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R₁COOR₂, in        which R₁ represents at least one linear or branched fatty acid        residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a        hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched,        containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that        R₁+R₂≧10. The esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid        esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate,        isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl        palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl        stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl        stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate,        octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and        especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol        octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene        glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate,        2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl        benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol        2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol        benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance        isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl        neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid        esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl        isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for        instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate,    -   polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance        dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,    -   esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers,    -   copolymers of diol dimer and of diacid dimer and esters thereof,        such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers, and        esters thereof,    -   copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof,    -   fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a        branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from        12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl        alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and        2-undecylpentadecanol,    -   C₁₂-C₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid        and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;    -   dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being        identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;    -   oils with a molar mass of between about 400 and about 10 000        g/mol, in particular about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in        particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more        particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol;        mention may be made especially, alone or as a mixture, of (i)        lipophilic polymers such as polybutylenes, polyisobutylenes, for        example hydrogenated, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes,        vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the        vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, and        polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymers, such as the copolymers of        a C₂-C₃₀ alkene, such as C₃-C₂₂, and combinations thereof; (ii)        linear fatty acid esters containing a total carbon number        ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl        tetrapelargonate; (iii) hydroxylated esters such as        polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; (iv) aromatic esters such as        tridecyl trimellitate; (v) esters of fatty alcohols or of        branched C₂₄-C₂₈ fatty acids, such as those described in U.S.        Pat. No. 6,491,927 and pentaerythritol esters, and especially        triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate,        glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl 2-tridecyltetradecanoate,        pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,        poly(2-glyceryl)tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl        2-tetradecyltetradecanoate; (vi) diol dimer esters and        polyesters, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid, and        esters of diol dimer and of diacid.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises anon-volatile oil of plant origin, a polyol ester and a particularsynthetic ester. Preferably, this non-volatile oil of animal origin is acaprylic/capric acid triglyceride. Preferably, this polyol ester isdipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate. Preferably,this particular synthetic ester is stearyl octyldodecyl stearate.

As will be seen hereinafter, besides a non-volatile oil serving asbinder for the pulverulent phase, a non-volatile oil, which ispreferably different, may serve as solvent for at least oneorganopolysiloxane elastomer according to the invention. According toone preferred embodiment, at least one non-volatile oil serving asbinder for the pulverulent phase is hydrocarbon-based, whereas, whereappropriate, at least one non-volatile oil containing the saidorganopolysiloxane elastomer is a silicone oil.

Volatile Oil

The term “volatile oil” means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that canevaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmeticvolatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, avolatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm²/min,limits inclusive.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to betested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, placed on abalance that is in a large temperature-regulated chamber of about 0.3m³, at a temperature of 25° C., and hygrometry-regulated, at a relativehumidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, withoutstirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan(Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in avertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the said oilor the said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizingdish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass ofoil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regularintervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporatedper unit area (cm²) and per unit of time (minutes).

This volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone oil or fluorooil. It is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogenand carbon atoms.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one siliconatom, and especially containing Si—O groups. According to oneembodiment, the said composition comprises less than 10% by weight ofnon-volatile silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of thecomposition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free ofsilicone oil.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorineatom.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/orphosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containingfrom 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C₈-C₁₆ branched alkanes (alsoknown as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane, isodecane andisohexadecane.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkanecontaining 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms andmore particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made especiallyof n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane,n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mxitures thereof.

Organopolysiloxane Elastomers

A composition according to the invention comprises an organopolysiloxaneelastomer. This elastomer may serve as fatty-phase gelling agent.

These particular elastomers, when combined with the pulverulent phasethat is moreover required according to the invention, make it possibleto obtain softness and comfort properties (suppleness of the deposit)for the deposits formed on the skin from compositions comprising them.

The term “organopolysiloxane elastomer” means a supple, deformableorganopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially theconsistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity issuch that this material withstands deformation and has limitedstretchability and contractability. This material is capable ofregaining its original shape after stretching.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer in accordance with the invention ispreferably crosslinked. Preferably, this elastomer is non-cyclic.According to one preferred embodiment, organopolysiloxane elastomershaving the INCI name dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer are used.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises at leastone organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least onehydrocarbon-based oil and/or silicone oil, which is preferablynon-volatile. Preferably, the said composition comprises at least oneorganopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at least one non-volatilesilicone oil having the INCI name dimethicone.

Non-Emulsifying Organopolysiloxane Elastomers

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least onehydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containingethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in thepresence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinkingcondensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxylend groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogenbonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or bycrosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containinghydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or bythermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presenceof an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxanevia high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or anelectron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxanecontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded tosilicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groupsand of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, inthe presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base compound for the formation oforganopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed byaddition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence ofthe catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chainor branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may bealkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substitutedalkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl;substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalenthydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate estergroup or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast two lower alkenyl groups (for example C₂-C₄); the lower alkenylgroup may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These loweralkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxanemolecule, but are preferably located at the ends of theorganopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have abranched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but thelinear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosityranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B)has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25° C.

Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groupsbonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such asmethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups suchas phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl;and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxygroup, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes,methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanescontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, anddimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of a dimethyl polysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy endgroups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the rangefrom 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A) and (B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers notcontaining any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing anypolyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene)or any polyglyceryl units.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are preferably conveyed inthe form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane includedin at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In thesegels, the organopolysiloxane particles may be spherical or non-sphericalparticles.

Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include, forexample, those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505by the company Dow Corning.

Mention may also be made of those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15,KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the companyShin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC Gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel and Gransil SRDC556 Gel from the company Gransil RPS from Grant Industries;1229-02-167, 1229-02-168 and SFE 839 from the company General Electric.

According to one particular embodiment, elastomers may be used as amixture with a cyclic silicone oil. An example that may be mentioned isthe mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclopentasiloxane or amixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclohexasiloxane, forinstance Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from the company GrantIndustries.

Emulsifying Organopolysiloxane Elastomers

The term “emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer” means anorganopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain,such as polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers andpolyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be chosen frompolyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least onehydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at leasttwo ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylenecontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially inthe presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, inU.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction ofpolyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene)with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxanewith trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such asphenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such asan epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers maybe formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenescontaining at least two vinyl groups, which react with Si—H bonds of apolysiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in U.S. Pat. No.5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S.Pat. No. 5,811,487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

Polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be usedinclude those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31,KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330 and KSG-340 by thecompany Shin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be chosen frompolyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to theinvention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained bycrosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compoundscontaining ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presenceof a platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of glycerolated compoundscontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially inthe presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of apolyglycerolated compound with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and ofmethylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, in thepresence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of anorganopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed byaddition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence ofthe catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A2) may have any molecular structure, especially alinear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B2).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (A2) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl,tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; andsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group,a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, the saidorganic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers anddimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding toformula (B′) below:

C_(m)H_(2m-1)—O-[Gly]_(n)-C_(m)H_(2m-1)  (B′)

in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from2 to 50, preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equalto 3; Gly denotes:

—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂—O— or —CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O—

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A2) is at least 4.

It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A2) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the rangefrom 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A2) and (B2).

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed in gelform in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. Inthese gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form ofnonspherical particles.

Polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be used includethose sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 andKSG-840 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under considerationaccording to the invention is chosen from spherical non-emulsifyingorganopolysiloxane elastomers, polyglycerolated organopolysiloxaneelastomers and polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under considerationaccording to the invention is chosen from spherical, preferablynon-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is non-emulsifying, forexample in the case of eyeshadow compositions, and in particular in thecase of anhydrous compositions.

Preferably, the emulsifying system according to the invention does notcomprise any emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Even more preferably, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxaneelastomer conveyed in a non-volatile oil combined with at least oneorganopolysiloxane elastomer in powder form. Such a combination may makeit possible to increase the percentage of elastomer solids within thesaid non-volatile oil, to better control its viscosity and to limit thecontent to be incorporated into the said composition in order, ifnecessary, to make space for other compounds such as colouring agentsand in particular nacres.

Such non-emulsifying elastomers in powder form especially comprise thosesold under the names DC 9506 or DC 9701 by the company Dow Corning.

Preferably, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomerchosen from the product sold under the name DC 9041 by the company DowCorning, KSG-16 by the company Shin-Etsu and DC 9701 by the company DowCorning, and a mixture thereof. Even more preferentially, thecomposition comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer chosenfrom the product sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corningand KSG-16 by the company Shin-Etsu, in combination with anorganopolysiloxane elastomer sold under the name DC 9701 by the companyDow Corning.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises atleast one organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in asolids content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 6% by weight and even more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, andmore preferentially ranging from 2% to 3% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition, for example about 2% by weight.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a ratio such that themass proportion of organopolysiloxane elastomer relative to thepulverulent phase is between 0.05 and 0.35, preferably from 0.10 to 0.20and even more preferably from 0.10 to 0.12.

Emulsifying System

The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifyingsystem. Such a composition comprises one or more surfactants. Thesesurfactants may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageouslyfrom 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weightand in particular from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

An emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain an oil-in-wateremulsion is generally used. In particular, an emulsifying surfactanthaving at 25° C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) withinthe Griffin sense of greater than or equal to 8 may be used.

The Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5),pages 249-256.

These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic andamphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made toKirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pp.333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifyingproperties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 ofthis reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants preferentially used in the composition according to theinvention are chosen from:

a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25° C., asmentioned above, for instance:

-   -   saccharide esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose        cocoate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan        tristearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate,        methylglucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitostearate,        sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose        oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose laurate        and sucrose hexaerucate, and mixtures thereof, for example        Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI or Span 65V from the        company Uniqema;    -   esters of fatty acids, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of        C₁₆-C₂₂, and of polyol, especially of glycerol or sorbitol, such        as glyceryl stearate, sold, for example, under the name Tegin M®        by the company Goldschmidt, polyglyceryl diisostearate,        polyglyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl        tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate,        polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl        laurate, such as the product Imwitor 312® by the company Hüls,        diethylene glycol (di)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate,        decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl caprate/caprylate,        polyglyceryl-2 (iso)stearate and (poly)ricinoleate;    -   oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or        oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 1 to 15        oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated        C₈-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty alcohols such as stearyl        alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name:        Steareth-2 such as Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema, or        oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol;    -   fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol,    -   oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicone compounds, for        example containing from 3 to 20 oxyalkylene units and especially        oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated dimethicones; it should be        noted that when a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated        organopolysiloxane elastomer, referred to as being emulsifying,        where appropriate conveyed in a non-volatile oil, as described        above, is used, it may simultaneously be the surfactant and the        organopolysiloxane elastomer for the composition in accordance        with the invention;    -   the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under        the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning.

b) anionic surfactants such as:

-   -   salts of C₁₆-C₃₀ fatty acids, especially amine salts, such as        triethanolamine stearate or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol        stearate;    -   polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially animated salts        or salts of alkali metals, and mixtures thereof;    -   phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as DEA oleth-10        phosphate (Crodafos N 10N from the company Croda) or        monopotassium monocetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan or        Arlatone MAP 160K from the company Uniqema);    -   sulfosuccinates such as Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl        sulfosuccinate and Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate;    -   alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;    -   isethionates;    -   acylglutamates such as Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate        (Amisoft HS-21 R® sold by the company Ajinomoto), and mixtures        thereof.

c) cationic surfactants, among which mention may be made especially of:

-   -   alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium        ethosulfate,    -   ammonium salts such as (C₁₂₋₃₀ alkyl)tri(C₁₋₄ alkyl)ammonium        halides, for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride        (or behentrimonium chloride).

d) amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such asN-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxidessuch as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, forinstance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold underthe name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical;

and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the emulsifying system comprises at least one nonionicsurfactant of less than 8 at 25° C., chosen from saccharide esters,preferably a sorbitan stearate, and a polyoxyalkylenated orpolyglycerolated silicone compound, preferably a PEG-10 dimethicone, anda mixture thereof.

Preferably, the emulsifying system used in the present invention isother than an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer. Preferably, acomposition according to the invention combines an emulsifying systemother than an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer with anon-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise anemulsifying system, in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight,preferably from 1% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 1.5% to3% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

It is understood that the alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal ortransition metal salts, such as zinc stearate, zinc myristate ormagnesium stearate, are not considered within the meaning of the presentinvention as forming an emulsifying system. Specifically, such compoundsserve first and foremost as fillers, and in particular as agents forcompacting the pulverulent phase.

Chelating Agents

According to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the compositionmay comprise a chelating agent. Such chelating agents are defined anddescribed in particular in the article “Chelating agents” Kirk OthmerEncyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 5 pp. 708-739, published in2003.

As mentioned in that article, this agent may be chosen frompolyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1,3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylicacids, polyamines, amino alcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases,aminophenols, Schiff s bases, tetrapyrroles, sulfur compounds, syntheticmacrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.

Preferably, this agent is chosen from aminocarboxylic acids, and ispreferably EDTA.

These agents are particularly useful for reducing the electrostaticbonding associated with substantial presence of water in theintermediate makeup and/or care composition according to the invention.To do this, the addition of a sequestrant or of a complexing agent, forinstance tetrasodium EDTA, makes it possible to complex the free ions,and more specifically the cations of the type Ca²⁺ (mineral fillers)especially present in the nacres and fillers. Consequently, when EDTAcomplexes these ions, the ionic strength of the water decreases.

Adjuvants

The composition may comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually usedin cosmetics, such as preserving agents, cosmetic active agents,moisturizers, UV screening agents, thickeners and fragrances.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to theinvention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associatedwith the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or arenot substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Assembly

According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmeticassembly comprising:

i) a container delimiting one or more compartment(s), the said containerbeing closed by a closing member; and

ii) a makeup and/or care composition in accordance with the inventionplaced inside the said compartment(s).

The container may be, for example, in the form of a jar or a box.

The closing member may be in the form of a lid or a tear-off cover. Inparticular, this closing member may comprise a cap mounted so as to beable to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the containerhousing the said makeup and/or care composition(s).

EXAMPLES

Two solid cosmetic compositions in compact powder form according to theinvention were prepared as follows, and then tested from the point ofview of impact strength and wear property.

% content Phases Compounds Pearly Satiny Talc (Luzenac Pharma M ® fromLuzenac) qsp / 1 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (Synmica Super / qspC86-3222 ® from Sun) Magnesium aluminium silicate (Veegum HV 3Granules ® from Vanderbilt) Zea mays starch (MST ® from LCW 3 Sensient)Xanthan gum (Keltrol TF ® from CP Kelco) 0.1 Pigments 0-5 30 2 Nacres55-60 30 3 Sorbitan stearate (Montane 60 Ecailles ® 2.3 2 from SEPPIC)Caprylyl/capric triglyceride (Miglyol 3.2 2.2 812 N ® from Sasol)Dipentaerythrityl 2.6 1.8 tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate (Salacos168 EV ® from Nisshin Oillio) Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate (Ceraphyl5.1 3 847 ® from ISP) Caprylyl glycol (Dermosoft Octiol ® from 1 Dr.Straetmans) 4 Dimethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer 7.8 (KSG 16 ®from Shin-Etsu, containing 24% organopolysiloxane elastomer solids)Dimethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.2 (DC 9701 Cosmetic Powder ®from Dow Corning, containing 93% organopoly- siloxane elastomer solids)

Preparation Process

The procedure below was used to prepare the compositions according tothe invention.

1—Preparation of Phase 1:

The compounds of phase 1 and the pigments of phase 1 are weighed out ina stainless-steel crucible and then milled using a shredder, first oncefor 15 seconds at 1500 rpm and then three times for 1 minute at 3000rpm.

2—Preparation of Phase 2: The nacres of phase 2 are weighed out in asecond crucible and added to phase 1, and the preparation (phase 1+phase2) is milled in a shredder (R5 or R5 plus) twice for 15 seconds at 1500rpm.

3—Incorporation of Phase 3:

The compounds of phase 3 are weighed out in a 250 ml beaker and thenheated on a water bath at 75° C. When phase 3 has melted, it is stirredusing a deflocculator (Turbotest 33/300 PH—Rayneri, Group VMI) until avortex forms (about 300 rpm) and then added with stirring via the lid ofthe shredder once for 1 minute at 1500 rpm to the preparation (phase1+phase 2).

4—Preparation of Phase 4:

The compounds of phase 4 mixed beforehand with a deflocculator areweighed out in a small stainless steel crucible, added to the rest ofthe preparation and then milled in a shredder, first once for 1 minuteat 1500 rpm and then twice for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm and finally oncefor 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

5—Finishing of the Preparation:

The powder obtained is then diluted in demineralized water. The amountof water is between 30% and 50% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition so as to obtain a viscosity suitable for a PiloteBack Injection machine sold by the company Nanyo Co. Ltd. This BackInjection machine makes it possible to obtain the “powder-water”mixture, also known as a slurry, via the base of the cup andsimultaneously to draw off part of the dilution water by suction.Throughout the injection of the product, the injection mould is placedunder vacuum so as to allow the removal of the water, which is drawn offby suction and recovered in the vacuum trap. Placing under vacuum thuspromotes the filling and homogenization of the cup. The partsback-injected are then placed in a ventilated oven at 50° C. until theirweight no longer changes. The product is then considered as being dry.

Measurement of the Impact Strength

Measurement Principle

The machine for taking such a measurement, known as a Packaging DropTest machine from the company Co. Pack (Italy), makes it possible toperform drop tests on solid compositions in compact powder form tomeasure their impact strength. The drop height is 30 cm. Using a ruler,the size of the support that maintains the compact is set (according tothe size of the cup) and the compact is then dropped by means ofcompressed air that actuates the opening of the support.

This machine replaces the manual drop tests performed previously by theformulator using a 30 cm ruler. In this new way, they are repeatable andthus more reliable.

These drop tests are also included in the study of the stability of thecompacts prepared.

Results:

An eyeshadow (ES) obtained via a conventional compacting process, duringwhich the pulverulent phase is mixed with a fatty phase and the whole isthen compacted, generally withstands a number of drops of between 3 and8, with a maximum of 45% nacres. By means of the various tests performedon the nacreous shades (containing more than 55% nacres), it wasobserved that the compact powders according to the invention withstand anumber of drops of between 10 and 20. This number is much higher thanthat of a compact powder with a higher percentage of nacres. Thestrength of the finished product has thus indeed been improved.

This improvement in the impact strength is explained according to theinventors by the particular structuring of the solid compositionaccording to the present invention by the hydrophilic gelling agents andthe emulsifying system, which makes it possible to obtain a compactpowder that is stronger than a compact powder obtained via theconventional processes not including such compounds. Furthermore, thewater that serves for dilution and for forming is very important, sinceit is that which creates the cohesion.

Measurement of the Wear Property with Wet Application:

A measuring protocol was performed on 12 people and the resultsevaluated by 10 judges.

Measurement Principle

1—Makeup removal performed the evening before;

2—A photo without makeup taken (0%);

3—Application of ES with a wet applicator by 10 wipes over the powderand then 10 wipes onto the eyelid, operation repeated twice;

4—A photo taken at T0 h of 100%;

5—A photo taken at T7 h;

6—The photos of the products, taking the 100% as reference, areevaluated by the naked eye under blind conditions, so as to give eachproduct an estimation of the percentage of wear at 7 h between 0 and100% in intervals of 10%.

Result

The results obtained with the composition according to the inventionapplied wet show that the wear property of the ES according to theinvention is very good. Specifically, after 7 h of application, duringwhich the panellists are not subjected to any constraint, 80% to 100% ofproduct remains on the eyelid after this period.

Another test performed under the same conditions moreover shows that awet application of a conventional ES (Ombre à Paupières Duo Lumière fromYSL) does not modify its wear property, in contrast with that of an ESaccording to the invention, the wear property of which is significantlyimproved.

Finally, another test performed under conditions similar to thoseoutlined above, the only difference being that the applicator remainsdry, showed that the wear property on dry application of an ES accordingto the invention is very good but comparable to that of a conventionalES (Ombre à Paupières Duo Lumière from YSL).

It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, theweight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds arealways expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

Throughout the application, the term “comprises one” or “includes one”should be understood as meaning “comprising at least one” or “includingat least one”, unless otherwise specified.

1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: apulverulent phase, an organopolysiloxane elastomer, an emulsifyingsystem, a hydrophilic gelling agent, and an organic non-volatile oilpresent in a content of greater than or equal to 1% by weight relativeto a total weight of the composition, wherein the composition is in aform of a compact powder.
 2. The composition according to claim 1,further comprising less than 3% by weight of water relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 3. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the composition has a solid content of greater than or equal to95%.
 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the compositioncomprises a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 5. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the pulverulent phasecomprises a filler and a colouring agent, wherein the colouring agent isat least one selected from the group consisting of a nacre, a pigmentand reflective particles.
 6. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the composition comprises nacres in a content of between 30% and70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 7. Thecomposition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifying system is atleast one selected from the group consisting of a nonionic surfactantwith an HLB of less than 8 at 25° C., an anionic surfactant, a cationicsurfactant and an amphoteric surfactant.
 8. The composition according toclaim 7, wherein the surfactant is at least one selected from the groupconsisting of a saccharide ester, a saccharide ether, a fatty acidester, an oxyalkylenated alcohol, a fatty alcohol and a siliconecompound.
 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein theorganopolysiloxane elastomer is non-emulsifying.
 10. The compositionaccording to claim 1, wherein the organopolysiloxane elastomer ispresent in a solid content by weight of between 0.5% and 8% relative tothe total weight of the composition.
 11. The composition according toclaim 1, wherein the non-volatile oil is a hydrocarbon-basednon-volatile oil, a silicone non-volatile oil, or a mixture thereof. 12.The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gellingagent is at least one selected from the group consisting of a thickeningfiller, a polymeric thickener and an associative polymer.
 13. Thecomposition according to claim 1, further comprising a chelating agent.14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition is aneyeshadow, a foundation powder or a blusher.
 15. An intermediatecomposition suitable for the composition according to claim 1, whereinthe intermediate composition comprises an aqueous phase present in acontent of from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 16. A process for manufacturing the composition accordingto claim 1, the process comprising: injecting into a mould anintermediate composition comprising an aqueous phase present in acontent of from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition, and removing the aqueous phase from the intermediatecomposition.
 17. A process for coating skin with the compositionaccording to claim 1, the process comprising applying the composition tothe skin.
 18. The composition according to claim 1, further comprisingless than 2% by weight of water relative to the total weight of thecomposition.
 19. The composition according to claim 1, wherein thecomposition is free of water.
 20. The composition according to claim 1,wherein the composition comprises a pulverulent phase in an amount ofbetween 45 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.